for M.C.
Thursday, September 6th, 2007In the car ride home from commencement at Fordham University one summer where my Uncle Joe earned his PhD in Pharmacology, his father - a man whose wry and sardonic sense of humor still permeates our familial halls - looked at him and said, “You’re still stupid.”
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There’s a rule about the tomato deseeder. One, that if ignored, can you get you a swift whack to the back of the head from the mixing end of a 36-inch pinewood spoon. To add insult to injury, the spoon is a hand carved utensil crafted by my late Grandpa Emidio. Just what it is he’s late for is immediately clear the minute you thumb your nose at the deseeder rule: he’s late in calling you a “cetriolo”. Even the dead get their licks in my family. “Cucumber” in Italian, the word ‘cetriolo’ has been so bastardized by generations of poor pronunciation and the drawl of the Southern Italian dialect that it sounds more like “cha-drool”. The idiomatic meaning is akin to one friend calling another a “dumbass”. Amiable, yet insulting. The accompanying hand gesture calls for your pointer and middle fingers put together, thumb out, rotating your wrist from left to right; think of the gesture kids make when pretending their hand is a gun, point it upward and you’re nearly there. As for the aforementioned rule, well, to press the button that activates the deseeder you need a PhD. You read that right, a PhD.
It’s not that pressing a button is complicated (though there were a handful of associated mishaps this year) and requires one to have gone to school for an upwards of 10 years; rather it’s a way to put the screws to the younger generations that, while capable of pushing a button, have not yet been able to earn the right to the prefix “Dr.”. An “I’ve been here longer than you and don’t you forget it!” with twice the hubris the statement implies. It’s not fair to us non-PhD’s who are left with menial, less exciting tasks. But then that’s the point. If you complain about it, your whines are met with laughs, your cries met with another whack. After the first whack, you’ve had your fill for the weekend; I’m pretty sure the same methods work with canines.
This past weekend was ”Tomato Weekend”. A two day affair usually taking place on Labor Day weekend, finds between 10 and 20 members of my extended family jarring our own tomato sauce. This year we managed 367 bottles.
We began on Saturday morning at 7am at my Great Uncle Emil’s house in Larchmont. The place is a large spread replete with 5 bedrooms, a look-through fireplace, and about the most able kitchen you gremmies have ever seen. Sporting dual sinks, marble countertops, dual ovens, and 6 burners on the stove, the only thing missing is a butcher’s block. The backyard is 30 yards long by 30 yards wide with giant rocks peeking out of the thick, matted grass like the crocodiles from “Pitfall”; which is to say if you trip and fall while running to second base in wiffleball, your health is forfeit. The playful terror is palpable.
Getting started so early in the morning, between the hours of 7 and 9am, creates a surreal atmosphere akin to going to the gym before work. The place is quiet, the mood is sleepy yet jovial, and the sense of accomplishment is magnified exactly by each hour of work put in before the regular day begins. Everyone else arrives at 9am and the fervor doesn’t die down until the evening.
The tomatoes are of the Roma variety and are ordinarily delivered to the house before 7am by a local produce wholesaler whose legend is that of the Wizard of Oz. We don’t know how he does it, but we all agree not to look behind the curtain so long as we get our fix. The tomatoes themselves are often grade A with very little schmutz on them. Schmutz, for those who do not speak Yiddish, is sediment or excess something which does not belong. In the case of roma tomatoes, schmutz is a little bit of dirt or dried tomato leaf stuck to the skin. This year’s crop yielded 30 cases for our endeavour. In other words, we ordered 30 cases from the Wizard. I would venture a guess and say there are 75 tomatoes per case. My Windows XP calculator tells me that’s 2,250 tomatoes; or 27 hand cramps.
The first stage, which is most often handled by the youngest of the brood, is washing. This step is as simple as its name implies. The boxed tomatoes are dumped unceremoniously into a small copper tub filled up half-way with water from the garden hose. The washer does his best to clean the schmutz from the skin of the tomatoes. Inevitably the combination of garden hose and youth leads to a water fight in which - invariably - all parties end up drenched to the bone, adding the “soaking wet” to the “100 pounds soaking wet” that the young embody. Ironically, it’s washing that requires the most vigilance not because of the task itself but because those assigned to it are always the laziest. What do they say? Youth is wasted on the young. I counted no less than 7 times I had to wrangle the washers back into their pen to carry on their charge.
After washing comes cutting. The key is to find supremely old cutting boards (the more brittle the better) and knives forged by Costco. Just add tomatoes. At one point on Saturday afternoon during cleanup I dropped one of the cutting boards from two feet up onto the soft grass of the backyard so I could hose it down and wouldn’t you know it? It broke in half. A piece of solid wood split right down the middle as if the master of disaster Bruce Lee crawled out of his grave and gave a demonstration of Jeet Kun Do in suburban New York City. Here’s to using quality products. Serrated knives are better at cutting tomatoes. God only knows why. Non-serrated knives are not only frustrating but are guaranteed to make you bleed the red blood. The added trouble is that amidst all the tomato juices, the blood is hard to pick out and who wants AB negative in their marinara anyway? You’d think a cut inflicted by a sharp knife would make you stop for a second: nope.
The tomatoes are cut into four pieces length-wise. If you’re a pro, like this gremmie, it takes two quick cuts. One down the center, the other down the center when the tomato has been rotated 90 degrees. The slower lot, mainly everyone other than myself and younger brother Peter, cut one tomato every 3 to 5 seconds. I can knock out 1 tomtato every second. That’s about as esoteric as it gets when it comes to street cred. But I wear it as a red badge of courage. I’m sure the reality of my skills are something like being the smartest person with down syndrome. Way to go, still a retard.
The sliced tomatoes are collected into large plastic bags which are then dumped into a pot that stands three feet high with a radius of 12 inches across. It sits on a propane-fuled flame atop a square cast iron burner outdoors next to the cutting table. This is the next step. When enough tomatoes have been cut to fill the pot (5 cases will do the trick) the top is placed where pot-tops go and the tomatoes are off to boil. Old eyes and experience go a long way in determining when the boiled tomatoes are ready for the next stage, deseeding. Evidently, there is small window between where the tomatoes are not yet ready for production and when the tomatoes turn to mush. Should let them go to mush or burn at the bottom of the pot you get a double-double, 2 smacks on the back of the head and 2 “cha-drool” comments.
A good boil is when the tomato skins are falling off there’s a sculpted pulp left behind. My Uncle Joe understands this well enough that it’s solely his charge.
You’ve already heard about the deseeder. Every year we hear the same sorry song, “By the way, only a few years ago we used a manual handcrank and it took hours!”. Clearly this is the tomato weekend version of, “I used to walk 6 miles in the snow to school everyday. And it was uphill - both ways!” Somehow the handcrank tale gets longer every year. It’s remarkable how the old continue to embellish their stories as the young catch up. It’s as if they’re trying to dig their roots deeper into the ground. It’s Homeric in it’s ardent stride to be remembered.
The rest of day rumbles in the kitchen. My grandmother, a woman whose charms are both disarming and caustic, runs the show. At 98 she’s as spry as a chicken. Well, a 98 year old chicken. Barking orders from her rocking chair, she’s the nucleus of the animated body prepping the tomato puree. I don’t understand the arcane magic of the kitchen’s machinations suffice to say that the handlers are all female and that witches are generally female. I can only assume their superior knowledge of manipulating the physical properties of tomatoes is sprung from some black art.
The chicanery produces the final product: mason jars filled to the brim with a tomato sauce base and sealed air tight. The jars are loaded 10 to a case and left to sit overnight in my Uncle Emil’s cool basement. The following day the tops are all finger tapped to make sure they’re sealed properly. Think of a bottle of snapple, if the top is popped then it’s not sealed.
Finally having the means, I was permitted to pay for one third of the haul. I use the word “permitted” distincly because if you pay for your lot, you have the right to unreservedly lord your payor status over others. You have the right to say, “I want this many cases because I paid for them.” This right is the modern day version of the brass ring. It was bestowed upon me without celebration. At 4pm in the afternoon on Sunday after we cleaned up there was a round table discussion about distribution. The board consisted of my Great Uncle Emil age 85, my Uncle Joe age 66, and Gremmie age 27. Sitting there at the table fending off the light broken by the tree branches above me, I felt like I had somehow conned my way into an elite inner circle whose minimum age requirement is 40. More to the point, I felt like one of the guys. It was a unique rite of passage. Pride welled in me. Stepping back, I found myself being ridiculous. Being just one of the guys meant accepting your responsibility without incident, not romaticizing an unremarkable event. Still, I smiled a big toothy (well, braces anyway) grin.
Just before the discussion began Jillian came out to - presumably - hug and kiss me; a tidy reward for a hard day’s work. I waved her back inside and it became clear to her the board was in session. She looked at me with the same dissatisfaction that befalls all women who realize there are things more important to their men than themselves. The tomato congress lasted 10 minutes. Simple calculations based on need and ardor equaled 11 cases for me; 110 bottles. The price I paid in dollars isn’t material because I would have paid any amount, though it barely needs pointing out.
Jill and I left that evening after dinner; a cornucopia of food that included roasted peppers, grilled hot & sweet sausage, corn on the cob, and a garden salad. Having no way of transporting numerous cases of tomatoes from Larchmont back to New York City I opted to only take one case with the assurance I’d return for the rest.
On a crowded Metro North red-line I sat atop a case of fresh tomato sauce. A fable, most assuredly - but who’s to say?

