Pittsburgh is a dirty place. For all its years beneath clouds of toxic soot and its tumultuous history with Andrew Carnegie and the riotous Pinkertons, there are better places to take vacations. That’s what I thought anyway. This is what the world thinks of Pittsburgh. But as it turns out, Pittsburgh is a surprisingly lovely place to visit. Visit.
I promised my good friend H I would come see him in Pittsburgh, and more specifically Carnegie Mellon, before he graduated with his Master’s Degree in Design. My flight was last Wednesday evening, the 13th. I was to stay until early morning Sunday. I left work early on Wednesday for my 7pm flight. Hoping to have my advanced copy of Haughty Melodic before I left I rushed home and checked with the doorman if the package had arrived. “Nope.” he says. To which I responded with, “Are you sure?” Looking at me like a dumb deer in headlights he said, “Yup.” This was an omen and I should have seen it sooner because the next hour consisted of my rush to leave betwixt dirty laundry, an undecided but mostly HOT shower, and creating new but unsatisfactory playlists on my iPod. On the way out of my building I was fine for time so I once again asked the doorman, “Look it was supposed to be here today. I tracked it online. Can you check one more time?” (Checks for disc) “Oh my bad, here it is.” Great. So I rush back upstairs in an effort to get these tracks on my iPod. It takes me a 45 minutes. By now I’ve missed the bus to the airport, and a taxi seems like the only solution. Fortunately there are piles lined up outside my building. $45? Fine, whatever - just get me to JFK in and hour and a half. “No problem.” my Pakistani driver insisted. Traffic during rushour in NY moves slower than frozen molasses running down a maple tree. But I had time on my side. To make a long story short, time wasn’t on my side, I made my flight with literally 4 minutes to spare and in the process pissed off an entire line of people waiting at the shoeless security check. Oh, and my flight was delayed during the stopover in DC for an hour. Joy.
I arrived in Pittsburgh at close to midnight. The airport was desolate, much like the nameless town from the 1959 episode of the Twilight Zone, Where is Everybody?. H picked me up and we drove to his place. The drive back was peaceful and I got to see Pittsburgh at night, we chatted about the things we always chat about. Depth shorted by weary brevity.
The food in Pittsburgh is unmatched for what it has to offer. H, having been a resident for the better part of 2 years, knew all the swell places to go. His knowledge base was the stepping stone for the sumptuous meals we’d had. Pamela’s fried pancakes with whipped butter was the first bite I had on Thursday morning. The crispy cakes mixed with syrup made for the best breakfast to ever soften this Gremmie’s lips. And I wasn’t the one who ordered it, it was H. I was cramping his breakfast. The decor was markedly blue collar, something I found to be both common and charming about Pittsburgh. The steak burgers and layer-thick milkshakes at Steak N’ Shake, pirogies, the filet mignon steak sandwiches, and endless array of crispy fries were just some of the things I devoured in Pitt. It may clog your arteries, but I’ll be damned if it wasn’t worth it.
The weather was perfect all weekend with temperatures in the 70’s.
We began Thursday with a tour of Pittsburgh and great tunes in the dashboard. Any guy who puts “Say Hello to Heaven” on a mixtape gets my vote for president. Of the U.S.A. Yes, THAT U.S.A. The houses in Pittsburgh remind me of what America should have been all along, and something that it once was. The sturdy brick houses and rocksteady, yet accessible neighborhoods harken back to a day when condos didn’t exist and next door neighbors spoke to one another. Every other house had a porch on it; memories of the older days. H had as much of an appreciation for these aesthetics as I did, no surprise there. Pittsburgh is a very hilly town. Like the Appalachians only without the Indians and DUI’s. The city is separated into no less than 20 neighborhoods each with its own character and personality. Where Squirrel Hill is more locally residential, Shady Side was more student oriented with its requisite Starbucks and Banana Republic.
Then there was Jenni. If you held up an emerald to the sun on warm and clear day, the illuminated green shone through best describes the color of her eyes. The poster child for Pantene Pro-V, her hair full and shiny. She’s as pleasant as a lamb yet she drives a pickup truck. Appealing in a way I cannot adequately describe.

The nightlife in Pittsburgh is what you make it. Someone once told me it’s ranked number 40 on the list of cities to be single. Who conjures up these ridiculous polls anyhow? Like anytown, it’s a fun and exciting place if you know where to go. Fortunately Harlan and Jenni were well versed from 2 years of steeltown kicks. Between Fatheads, the Tiki Lounge, and the Sharp Edge, there was never a dull moment in Pittsburgh. Well except for that house party where we all saw what could only be described as the inspiration for Jeff Kanew’s Revenge of the Nerds. See below. That’s a GIRL. I mused to myself if these people were aware they can only exist in a vaccuum.

wow

2 herbs and a hottie
The girl on the right is Kara. She’s Jenni’s great friend and a laugh-riot that everyone needs to know if only to bring a bit of boisterous sunshine into their lives.
The Tiki Lounge. Fun place, apparently they have a dark make-out room.

H & M

M + J

Kara and the guys she was not-so-secretly poking fun of.
And here’s a couple at the Sharp Edge where once a year the Grad Students get a few rounds of free drinks. I snuck in and was no worse for the wear.

awww

again, awww
Since it was a festival weekend at Carnegie Mellon there was an outdoor fair with Skeeball, mock up fun houses made by frats, and a Monkey Maze, something I regret not going into. It was like Coney Island, only without the meth addicts and gang wars.

Frat Row at CMU

Wither goest thou sweet Monkey Maze

Fortunate as me.

For good measure.
Harlan was doing a lovely thing for his little cousin. He had sent H a cutout of a gentleman named Flat Stanley to keep him company. H, took some great pictures of Flat Stanley in and around Pitt. What a nice guy. The first picture taken was at a pod race (dubbed aPods) at Carnegie Mellon. A clash of engineering and tiny Asians, I missed out on the event for reasons defined harrowing.

flat stanley

There was a great picture taken of a whiteboard in one of the Design rooms where H and Co. design all manners of things. It read “gremmie was here and he beat up some nerds” but since it has mysteriously dissappeared I can only tell you gremmies about it. The Carnegie Mellon campus is great, nothing like what I am accustomed to. It’s rife with history and culture and H and myself even managed to find time to throw around the old football on the campus green. Like the town, the campus is also quite hilly, like Tuscany only without the Italians and lush verdant fields.
Pittsburgh was a great excursion. The food, the nightlife, and more importantly the company made me a happy gremmie in Laundrytown. There’s more to tell in this story, but that’s the case with any tale worth its weight in salt. We’ll just have to see where it goes.